today's blog will feature some pictures and observations on non-food street vending. it is a long post, so brace yourself.
another way in which india is incredible is the number of people who are working as entrepreneurs. there are few chains in the country (vishal megamart, pentaloon, cash-and-carry [german chain], big bajar) but their presence is increasing, especially in the mega cities such as mumbia, chennai, kulkuta, bangalor, new delhi. most commerce is conducted, often by extended family members, in stalls, shops or on the curb. thousands of vendors. they can earn 1000 or more rupees/ day ($22), sufficient to support a family. middle class (house or condo, refigerator, washing and drying machine, car, some savings, money for education and health care) requires 20,000 - 30,000 rupees a month ($450 - $650 or $5400 - 7800 annually). some serious conversions must be taken into account in comparing. life style is constructed on a profoundly different cultural and material standard.
the impression of the usa here: incredible infrastructure, clean water and air, excellent sewage system, safety from crime, extraordinary technology, much material wealth, no poverty. there is much envy of the usa, at least among the english speakers with whom i talk. and i am finding indians incredibly friendly. easy with whom to talk.
my impression of india by contrast: friendly, trustworthy, culturally and spiritually more centered (90% religious as hindus, moslems, sikhs, buddhists, jains, some christians, very few jews, now mostly in mumbai). deep sense of community, especially for extended family. politeness. thoughtfulness. overall happier, much less driven (although the usual work week exceeds 54 hours if one works in an office, longer for the merchants in this blog). as simon observed when he was here for four months studying, people seem much happier than in the usa. go figure.
repairing things, and i mean everything, is obvious on the streets. there are many bicycles, three wheel rickshaws, three wheel carts for hauling, auto rickshaws, motor cycles. everywhere on the curbs are tire and cycle repair men (pic above left), capable of rebuilding the bearings in the axles or the chains (pic, above, middle and right) or respoking the wheels. on the spot, no waiting. and they use simple tools and supplies, and use them well. for bicycle tire repair, they do not use small packaged repair patches as we do in the usa. instead, they cut a piece from an old tube and use a dab from a tube of vulcanizing cement (i think it is actually rubber cement) to create the patch. cost? rs10-15. new tires installed? rs150 ($3) including a good new tube.
very little is wasted here, and in this regard, patna is representative of the entire country. there are shoe repairmen on any given block (pic below left). shining shoes, resoling, mending. the strap had pulled loose on the flip-flop he is repairing (pics immediate left). with needle and heavier thread, he resews it. cost? probably rs5 (~10 cents).
there is also pride among people in doing their work honestly. as my friend and neighbor thakul says, all work is equal, in respect and value. i have yet to meet anybody who seems ashamed, whether the trash sweeper, the bicycle rickshaw driver from the rural areas (who sleeps next to his vehicle and rents it for rs20/ day) to the hotel doorman to the new auto dealer salesman.
in a culture in which everything is repaired, of course that includes musical instruments. the fellow on left polishes brass things, next door the fellow repairs brass things, including a large horn. these store fronts close up for security at night. others are left open while someone sleeps in the shop. other businesses simply pack into a cart or bicycle and ride off, to return to the same place on the morrow. although officially illegal, the curb side merchants negotiate with the local constabulary for privileges.
there is a lot of specialization among merchants. the man on left is in a small stall and repairs motors. in this case, he is taking out the motor windings and will replace them. i am sad to say that the whole outfit would more likely be thrown away in the usa. clever, skilled and industious, such waste does not happen in india. yes, of course, labor costs are much less but does that justify wastefulness? there are reasons that five percent of the world's population (the usa) uses 40% of the world resources. i recently read that 40% of groceries are thrown away in america. the cost in lost energy (growing, chemical farming, transport [average food travels over 1000 miles in the usa before it is consumed), refrigeration, and then spoilage, disposal and land fill]) cost a fortune. if we add in the indirect costs of pollution . . .
across from colleges and universities, there is always a line of book stores (if you can't figure out which pictures, you shouldn't be reading this). technical books, science books (i am still hunting for a place selling english language novels). the interest in computer, technology and science courses is evident by
the book titles. new books, lots of used books.
prices? mostly s100-500 ($2-5), used for rs50-100. finding sellers of identical goods all in a row (fruits, sweet fried things, books, shoes, bakery goods [actually fried delights], motor supplies) is not uncommon.
coal fires are very common for cooking foods for sale, and in cold weather. it was unseasonably cold the first two weeks i was here, in the mid-40's. many small fires with people squatting around for warmth. the government actually gave out coal and wood so street people didn't freeze.
the man (pic left) is breaking lumps of coal into smaller sizes. he will then weigh them on a simple balance of two trays on a chain or cable, using weights to balance. most everything is sold in kilogram amounts. he personally pulls the cart full of coal.
this fellow (pic on far left) is cutting tobacco leaf with a simple hinged knife. vendors of packets of betel and cigarettes (stall adjacent to a barber chair, pics left, photo on right) are everywhere. they also sells candies, chewing gum, chips and other unhealthy packaged snacks.
betel is from the areca catechu nut and is the fourth most common addictive substance used world wide. it is used as a
stress reducer, mild euphoric and to heighten awareness. it is also an anorexic.
it is used by 10% of the world's population, mostly in asia. (okay, for those of you who are impatient, the addictives, in order, alcohol, tobacco, caffeine and betel.) betel comes in small foil wrapped packages (hanging like ribbons from the top of the stall) or it can be bought custom made right in front of you, wrapped in a leaf and made with betel, a touch of tobacco, calcium powder and catechu [a boiled acacia bark that gives betel preparations its red color]). the streets are littered with both the foil packets and quids of red spit (pic left).
shave and a haircut? two bits? actually. i got my first shave (lather-shave, then lather-shave), a new razor blade each shave for everyone, rub down with a block of alum, two rubs with skin cream), a brief head and shoulders massage, all for rs 10 (25 cents), i was so comfortable, i followed with a haircut for an additional rs30. they cut hair close, using only a comb and scissors (pic right), so i probably won't need another until i'm ready to leave. smiles, no complaints on my part.
there are actually four places one can get a haircut. on your haunches, both you and the barber. in a chair (the picture left above shows a two chair shop), in a small open faced stall (paragraph above next to betel vendor), or in a regular closed door shop. again, most commerce is conducted right on the curb or along the road. the tools of the trade (scissors, razor and blades, creams, brush, clipper, mirror) in this case are on a ledge in front of the chairs (pic above right).
and then, there are different shopping areas. pictured to the far left is a series of stores in patna, on both first and second floor. it would be
considered a mall. there are often three or four sales people to serve you in each store. in general, there are many people working any given job, which also means there are many people working.
gandhi actually said "
the craze is for what they call labour-saving machinery. men go on "saving labour" till thousands are without work and thrown on the open streets to die of starvation. i want to save time and labour, not for a fraction of mankind but for all."
in the second picture (next to the mall pic) are the stalls along the main road in bodh gaya. immediately above left is a nursery along a main road in patna. there were several in a row, many varieties of potted plants. again, i am sure they are guarded at night by someone sleeping right there.
the shops with interiors are rarely large. pharmacies, and there are many of them, stock small quantaties of many medications. antibiotics are over the counter (pic far left). the stationary store, also a small storefront, again had an incredible array of products. i bought a small container of paper clips for rs20 (50 cents) in a sturdy plastic
resealable
case(pic above right) . the shoe display (pic left) is sheltered by a tent. they pack up the shoes at the end of the day.
on the ground floor of the building which houses the DORD offices is located a sign printing shop. i am glad i am two stories up, and that there is open grillwork enclosing the stairway. ink has a very strong odor. along the street in front of the office are four sign stalls, all using the same print shop, each building frames for the signs as necessary. the fellow at left is putting some corrective touches on a recently printed banner.
so, there you have it. a picture of commerce in india. i am told it doesn't vary much throughout the country. what i find most impressive are two things: how many people are afforded a chance to work and to be in business for themselves with the control and pride that can give, and how efficiently things are used, repaired and recycled.
take care. -larry
long time, no write. my work at the ngo has picked up pace, and i am much busier than before. i am also outside of the major city of patna, and i rely on the hospital generator for power (right). it is off at night and in the early morning.
headquarters and hospital (left). dord hospital currently provides eye services: glasses and 50-100 cataract surgeries six days/week. comparable numbers in the usa for one surgeon on one day: around 8. (fanatic antisepsis at the expense of efficiency. the ophthalmologist tell me the infection rate approaches zero).
discussions). the hospital has developed to meet immediate needs, and raja wants to systematize the structure as they embark on further development. the charts will be presented by the director and discussed with staff this week). another project is working with senior staff and teachers on conversational english (they can all read and understand, but benefit from grammatical help in constructing english sentences),. the third project is a collaborative proposal for expanding into full maternity services (normal deliveries and cesarean section deliveries). for me, a fun project, drawing on my clinical background in childbirth and my administrative experience over thirty years. i have also visited seven indian hospitals to understand the customs and procedures here.
we begin with brick making. the area around daudnagar is blanketed with tall smoke stacks (far left), each in the center of a mound of sun dried mud bricks (right) which are covered with fine ash and sand carried in rounded 
metal pans (below) prior to baking. the load is heavy. the sun dried bricks are 
laid in an interlacing fashion. at one end of this 120x50 foot square and 7 foot high mound are holes for crushed charcoal which burns and sends heat through the 
catacombs to bake the bricks. after 24 hours or so (probably shorter 
when the ambient temperatures reach 100-110 degrees fahrenheit in may through august), a parade of people unearth the bricks and stack them for loading onto trucks or wagons to be pulled by simple tractors. the bricks are carried from the kiln on one's head (photos above). the kilns run 24 hours/day.
in the ten days before i started work on 26 jan, i stayed in patna, bihar for three days (2 million people, bihar state is one of the fastest growing in india (there are 28 of them), and then took a bus to bodh gaya (4 hours, cost rupees 60 or $1.50) for three days. that was enough for a tourist's view, but it would have been lovely to stay for a week or so. it feels very spiritual and holy.
